Hottest place on earth

The thermal centre of the earth lies near this expedition’s route. This claim is based on NASA’s satellite data of land surface temperatures which claims that the hottest ground temperature on earth ever recorded (70.7 °C) was in the lowest area of the Lut desert in 2005. Although we will not be trekking in temperatures nearly as high, the Lut Desert is an important research area for understanding many physical, chemical and biological processes of the Earth and space.

Iran’s desert

The Lut covers a region of some 200,000 km2. it is surrounded by the South Khorasan Province, Sistan va Baluchistan and Kerman. It is around 185m below sea level in parts and hosts a varied display of wonderful desert-related structural phenomena and features. It experiences deadly high temperatures in the summer months and very little precipitation annually (under 5cm per year). Much of the desert is designated an abiotic environment as it cannot support any life although previous expedition teams have spotted wild camels and lizards.

In the eastern Lut there are high sand dunes and star dunes – towering pyramids that are among the highest in the world. They are void of life and have ripple marks like the ocean floor, created by the shifting winds.

Kaluts

Kaluts, also known as yardangs, stand like enormous sand castles. They are like broken teeth jutting up from the sand and punctuating the landscape as far as the eye can see. According to UNESCO, the Lut’s widespread Kalut system is the longest in the world at approximately 120km long and 80km wide. Formed by wind erosion, they can reach heights of 80m, although most are smaller hills and long elongated furrows. Between them there are salty desert lands similar to ploughed lands, with a hard mineral base.

Teammate photography from the Lut teaches us more about this incredibly diverse terrain from one year to the next – it is truly a jaw-dropping environment to be able to trek through!

Secret Compass runs expeditions with framework itineraries, rather than guided tours with set daily plans. Read more about Our Approach here. The following is the outline plan for this ambitious desert Iran Expedition Handbook which is available on request or upon application to join the team.

Teammates arrive

All teammates fly into Tehran to arrive by 1200 on Day 1. Teammates will make their own arrangements to get to a local hotel (local transport connections are excellent and details will be given) where your Secret Compass leader will await. The expedition officially begins at the hotel with an introductory briefing, followed by an organised tour of Tehran. Dinner and overnight at the hotel in readiness for an internal flight (organised by Secret Compass and included in cost) to Birjand. In Birjand, the team will meet the excellent local support team and will pack and prepare to commence the desert traverse the following day.

On expedition

Days three to ten of this epic desert expedition involve trekking across the Lut. You’ll be dropped off at the trailhead then let loose on the desert. This route encompasses many striking desert features as outlined in the Why Go section above. The team’s first obstacles are massive sand dunes rising over 200m high. Progress will be slow as the terrain is arduous, the heat oppressive. Moving east, you’ll pass through the Eye of the Lut evaporated lake and the meteorite valley. Then it’s on to flatter ground, crossing salt plains and encircling star dunes.

This is a wholly trekking traverse. The 4WD vehicles are for support only and will make themselves scarce once they replenish the team’s water supplies in the morning. Teammates will each carry daysacks with clothing layers, water (at least three litres per person), lunch and personal items and a share of team med kit. Cooking equipment and the tents will travel in the 4WD vehicles, which will rejoin the team every evening. Throughout the trek, the team will camp in tents beneath the vast desert skies. Needless to say, there will be no showers as all water will be needed for cooking and drinking.

Secret Compass expeditions are achievable by anyone with a healthy lifestyle and a good level of general fitness. Team members should be willing to be part of a team working together to achieve the goal of the expedition. As a team member, you should have an adventurous and robust spirit. The biggest challenge on this 220km-long desert trekking expedition will be the long trekking days, the heat and the foot care in challenging and often sandy terrain.

Applicants will receive a Handbook with further expedition information. View Secret Compass’s suggested Expedition Training Advice and get in touch with any fitness, health, training or kit questions that remain. Teammates who arrive without meeting the agreed minimum fitness requirements can jeopardise themselves and the expedition’s goal so do take training seriously, prepare as appropriate and arrive fit and ready to go!

Included

• Professional Secret Compass expedition leader with full communications kit and medical kit.
• In-country support and vehicles.
• All transport as outlined in the itinerary except for airport transfers.
• Hotel, guesthouse or tented accommodation throughout.
• All food (snacks and meals) and soft drinks.
• Visa application assistance.

On application, potential teammates will receive a detailed Expedition Handbook. Here are some expedition-specific questions and our general FAQ will answer many other questions. Get in touch if your question remains unanswered.

Can I arrive a day late?

As The Plan outlines, there is a chain of transport to get teammates out to and back from Tehran and so start and end dates are not flexible.

Can I charge all my electricals?

This will be very challenging with limited access to power once the trekking section begins. Please ensure that you are self-sufficient in terms of charging your appliances by bringing things like spare batteries, lightweight solar panels or power packs to avoid frustration.

Do I need a visa?

Most nationalities require a visa to visit Iran, this can be a lengthy process. A visa application advice document will be provided to teammates, with visas remaining teammates’ responsibility.

Will there be toilets or showers?

There will be no toilets or showers available during the trek. You should be prepared to duck behind the nearest sand dune ‘al-fresco’ and limit yourself to wet-wipe washes. Toilet paper is generally burned. The water for this expedition is being carried by the support vehicles so there will not be enough to provide showers of any nature. Wet wipes are the way forward: you’ll all be in the same position so don’t worry about it.

Dietary requirements

Vegetarians and coeliacs may find they have very limited options in Iran. Feel free to supplement the meals provided with your favourite trail snacks. Give as much details as possible when applying to help us best provision the team.

How fit do I need to be?

See our Fitness section in Get Ready and the Fitness tab here for expedition-specific fitness advice.

Will be carry all kit in the desert?

The team will be supported by 4WD vehicles in the desert. Each team member will have to carry at least three litres of water, per person per day, lunch supplies, personal kit (suncream, camera etc) and a share of the group emergency and communications kit.

Can we leave a flight bag anywhere?

You’ll be able to leave a small bag in Tehran with any items you won’t need during the trek. This will be at your own risk.

Can we charge things in the desert?

The support vehicles will be equipped with 12v chargers although Secret Compass’s communications systems and in-country support staff requirements will always take priority. Solar panels are a good option for recharging personal equipment in the desert. Come with sensible expectations around being able to charge items.

Will my camera work in the heat?

Cameras should not be that affected by the heat and dryness, but if it reaches over 45 degrees they might struggle. Your best bet is to keep your camera in its bag until you use it and don’t keep in the direct sunlight for too long. The main problem is the sand itself. Grains can easily get into the lens systems, particularly compact cameras with zoom lenses. Ones with electronic lens covers are most at risk. The best cameras to use are sealed waterproof cameras which have no external working lenses so no sand can egress them. If using an SLR, then take care to prevent sand getting into a lens housing. Using Prime fixed focal length lenses can help. Take a small paintbrush, a puffer bottle or, even better, a compressed air canister (probably bought in-country if flying in) to blow away sand and grit from moving parts. Take care around the sensor and never wipe this if sand is on the sensor. Take particular care if the wind is blowing or the sand is very fine.